Carnival atmosphere, a morning in the Kapani and Modiano markets, and an evening of meze and tsipouro in Ladadika. Thessaloniki on a long weekend is the city break the Greeks already know about.
Carnival in Thessaloniki has deep roots: costume balls are held in venues across the city, a float parade fills the streets, and the clubs and tavernas peak on the final Sunday (Apokries Sunday). The same pattern holds for the major long weekends of Clean Monday, 25 March, and Ohi Day on 28 October: domestic demand from across Greece rises, restaurants fill, and the centre of the city is at its most alive. If you are travelling for the long weekend, book ahead.
Markets, tavernas and the walkable centre
The Kapani market, the oldest open-air market in operation, and the Modiano arcade with its meze houses are the starting point for a morning walk: spices, cheeses, olives, and the hum of the covered bazaar. Ladadika is a few blocks further on for dinner: tavernas, tsipouradika, and the occasional clarinet on carnival evenings. The Modiano and Kapani markets guide and the food guide cover what to expect at each.
Carnival lands at the end of winter or the start of spring depending on the year, and the weather follows. Expect days around 2 to 12°C if it falls early, milder ones in March, with rain alternating with clear spells. The Vardaris can drop the temperature sharply within a few hours. Dress in layers and keep an umbrella. The centre walks in any case, and when the weather turns, the covered markets and the cafés are inside the same loop.
Your base for the long weekend
In Ladadika, at the centre of Thessaloniki, the Loena suite is two minutes from the tavernas and eight from Modiano and Kapani. Carnival weekends and major public holidays fill central accommodation. Book as early as you can.
Frequently asked questions
When is Carnival in Thessaloniki?
Carnival runs for three weeks before Clean Monday (Kathari Deftera), peaking on Apokries Sunday, the last Sunday before Lent. Clean Monday is a public holiday. Markets and many restaurants close, though many tsipouradika in Ladadika remain open.
What happens in Thessaloniki on Ohi Day (28 October)?
Ohi Day is a national public holiday with a military parade along Nikis Avenue, one of the largest parades in Greece. Restaurants and bars operate as normal, and the city draws visitors from across the country.
Do I need a restaurant reservation for the carnival long weekend?
Yes. The popular tsipouradika and tavernas in Ladadika fill quickly on carnival weekends. Book a table a few days ahead, especially for Apokries Sunday evening and Clean Monday.
