Central Thessaloniki near the markets

Neighbourhood guide

Modiano & Kapani markets

The city's culinary heart — a short walk from the suite.

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By Christos Petkakis. Updated June 2026.

The Modiano arcade and Kapani market: the culinary heart of Thessaloniki, eight minutes from Ladadika.

Kapani: the oldest working market

Kapani — also known as the Vlali market — is the oldest open-air market in Thessaloniki still in operation. Spices, cheeses, olives, meat, and vegetables are sold side by side in lanes that have not changed much since the bazaar era. The adjacent Athonos square carries the same spirit in a slightly smaller footprint.

Modiano: in transition — head to Kapani

The Modiano arcade, the historic covered market designed by Eli Modiano in 1922, closed in 2025 for extensive renovation. It is due to reopen as an Ergon food hall, but the completion date remains open. In the meantime, Kapani and Athonos are the two living market points well worth a visit.

Seafood

Ψαράς — Fisheria

Modiano & Kapani8 min walk

Working fishmonger with a small restaurant at Plateia Athonos — the city's fish dry-ageing pioneer.

Petros Semkos, fish dry-ageing pioneer

Tavernas & meze

Ουζερί ΑγοράOuzeri Agora

Modiano & Kapani8 min walk

Lesvos-style ouzeri in the old market off Ionos Dragoumi (Kapodistriou 5), since January 1991.

Eagles of Gastronomy

Στου Μήτσου

Modiano & Kapani7 min walk

Traditional kafeneio-mezedopoleio inside the Kapani market (Vlali 11) — hand-made mezedes from the market stalls.

Greek Gastronomy Guide, Kapani market since 2014

Bars

Πουροβόκου ProjectPurovoku Project

Modiano & Kapani8 min walk

Zero-waste, hyper-local cocktails by the Bezesteni (Karipi 3).

First city bar on World's 50 Best Discovery

Markets

Αγορά ΚαπάνιKapani

Modiano & Kapani7 min walk

The city's oldest working food market (Vlali) — fishmongers, greengrocers, cheesemongers, butchers.

City's oldest working food market

Αγορά ΜοδιάνοModiano

Modiano & Kapani7 min walk

The 1920s glass-and-steel-roofed market hall, reopening as an Ergon food hall — currently in transition.

1920s glass roof, Ergon food hall (in transition)

Αγορά ΑθωνοςAthonos

Modiano & Kapani8 min walk

The third central market square — fishmongers, mezedopoleia and Petros Semkos's Fisheria dry-ageing counter.

Central market square, fishmongers, Fisheria

Frequently asked questions

How far are the markets from the suite?

Kapani and the Modiano arcade are roughly an eight-minute walk from Ladadika.

Is the Modiano open?

Not at the moment — the Modiano arcade closed in 2025 for renovation and is due to reopen as an Ergon food hall. For a working market visit, head to Kapani or Athonos right beside it.

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